Villa Maria Cellar Select Syrah 2005 about as good as cool climate Syrah gets - outstanding
Tasting
Notes
9/21/09
Syrah/Shiraz is not something that most people think about when it comes to Kiwi wines. But New Zealand actually makes some world class versions coming out of the Gimblett Gravels region of the North Island’s Hawkes Bay area.
The Gimblett Gravel area was once the Ngaruroro riverbed which became an alluvial gravel wash when the rivers course was changed due to flooding the 1870’s. The area became the Gimblett Gravel appellation in 2001 and now encompasses nearly 2000 acres of which 90% is planted to vines. A relatively warm area for New Zealand, with well draining, infertile soils, it is well suited for growing Bordeaux varieties as well as Syrah, which have shown amazing promise.
Villa Maria may be one of that country’s bigger producers in sheer volume but it prides itself on its unique and limited version offerings. The 2005 Cellar Select Syrah is an outstanding cool climate example of the varietal. What impresses most is the fruit intensity and flavor without the size and weight one gets from more recognizable Australian or domestic Syrah, with leanings that place it in the Northern Rhone Valley of France. Possessing a combination of dark cherry and red berry fruit flavors, there are notions of hung game, crushed black pepper spice and a floral lift to the nose, reminding of violets. Sleek in texture, medium-fuller bodied and blessed with excellent depth and an enticing lingering, warm finish this shows exceptional balance and poise on the palate. Just now coming into its own, this should drink beautifully over the next 2-3 years.
